How can you tell how long you have had mice, we recently found droppings in a cabinet, they much be recent.?

We are in there about once a week so we would notice any droppings we think it just started, but why nothing has changed except out above ground pool burst flooding our backyard. Anyway there is a pretty decent amount of droppings in the cabinet, kind of looks like someone spilled some chocolate sprinkles for ice cream.How can you tell how long you have had mice, we recently found droppings in a cabinet, they much be recent.?
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/PESTNOTES…





MANAGEMENT





Because house mice are so small, they can gain entry into homes and other buildings much more easily than rats. As a result, house mouse infestations are probably 10 to 20 times more common than rat infestations. Effective control involves sanitation, exclusion, and population reduction. Sanitation and exclusion are preventive measures. When a mouse infestation already exists, some form of population reduction such as trapping or baiting is almost always necessary.





A key to successful long-term mouse control is the limitation of shelter and of food sources wherever possible. Trapping works well when mice are not numerous, or it can be used as a follow-up measure after a baiting program. When considering a baiting program, decide if the presence of dead mice will cause an odor or sanitation problem. If so, trapping may be the best approach. Removal of mice should be followed by taking steps to exclude them so that the problem does not recur.





Several types of rodenticides are used in baits. The anticoagulant rodenticides are most commonly available and can be used in and around buildings (Table 1). Because all rodenticides are toxic to humans, pets, and wildlife, take special precautions to prevent the poisoning of nontarget animals.


Sanitation





Because mice can survive in very small areas with limited amounts of food and shelter, their control can be very challenging, especially in and around older structures. Most buildings in which food is stored, handled, or used will support house mice if the mice are not excluded, no matter how good the sanitation. While good sanitation will seldom completely control mice, poor sanitation is sure to attract them and will permit them to thrive in greater numbers. Pay particular attention to eliminating places where mice can find shelter. If they have few places to hide, rest, or build nests and rear their young, they cannot survive in large numbers.


Exclusion





Exclusion is the most successful and permanent form of house mouse control. “Build them out” by eliminating all gaps and openings larger than ¼ inch, through which mice will enter a structure. Steel wool makes a good temporary plug. Seal cracks in building foundations and around openings for water pipes, vents, and utility cables with metal or concrete. Doors, windows, and screens should fit tightly. It may be necessary to cover the edges of doors and windows with metal to prevent gnawing. Plastic screening, rubber or vinyl, insulating foam, wood, and other gnawable materials are unsuitable for plugging holes used by mice.


Traps





Trapping is an effective method for controlling small numbers of house mice. Although time-consuming, it is the preferred method in homes, garages, and other structures where only a few mice are present. Trapping has several advantages: (1) it does not rely on potentially hazardous rodenticides; (2) it permits the user to view his or her success; and (3) it allows for disposal of trapped mice, thereby eliminating dead mouse odors that may occur when poisoning is done within buildings.





Simple, inexpensive, wood-based snap traps are effective and can be purchased in most hardware and grocery stores. Traps can be baited with a variety of foods; peanut butter is the most popular because it is easy to use and very attractive to mice. Set the triggers lightly so the traps will spring easily.





Multiple-capture live traps for mice, such as the Victor Tin Cat and the Ketch-All, also are available from hardware stores and pest control suppliers. They can catch several mice at a time without being reset, so labor requirements are reduced.





Set traps behind objects, in dark corners, and in places where there is evidence of mouse activity. Place them close to walls so mice will pass directly over the trigger. Traps can be set on ledges, on top of pallets of stored materials, or in any other locations where mice are active. Use enough traps to make the trapping period short and decisive. Mice seldom venture far from their shelter and food supply, so space traps no more than about 10 feet apart in areas where mice are active.





An alternative to traps are glue boards, which catch and hold mice that are attempting to cross them, in much the same way flypaper catches flies. They are available at many places where other rodent control products are sold. Place glue boards along walls where mice travel. Do not use them where children, pets, or desirable wildlife can contact them. Nontarget animals that become caught on the glue board can be removed in most cases by using vegetable oil as a solvent to loosen the glue. Glue boards lose their effectiveness in dusty areas unless covered. Extreme temperatures also may affect the tackiness of glue boards.





One problem with live-catch traps and glue boards is that you need to dispose of the live mice. Cervical dislocation is an acceptable method of euthanasia. For mice caught on glue boards, this means taking a sturdy rod or stick and delivering a sharp blow to the base of the skull. Drowning is not considered humane, although it is sometimes suggested by trap manufacturers. Releasing live-caught mice back to the outdoors frequently promotes increased mouse problems.


Baits





Baits to control rodents are formulated with an attractant (generally food) and a rodenticide (toxin). Most rodenticides used to control mice around the home are already mixed with an attractant in commercially ready-to-use baits. The rodenticides in these baits are either anticoagulants or other rodenticides such as single-dose toxicants and chronic rodenticides.





Anticoagulant Rodenticides. Anticoagulants cause death as a result of internal bleeding, which occurs as the animal’s blood loses the ability to clot and capillaries are damaged. The active ingredients are used at very low levels and the onset of symptoms is delayed, so the rodent does not avoid the bait because of its taste or the onset of illness. When prepared with good-quality cereals and other bait ingredients, all anticoagulant baits provide good to excellent house mouse control if placed in suitable locations for the mice. The various anticoagulant active ingredients currently registered for use against house mice in California are listed in Table 1.


Table 1. Anticoagulant Rodenticides for House Mouse Control Registered for Use in California 2006. Common name


(example trade names) Chemical name


brodifacoum


(d-CON,1 Havoc, Jaguar ) 3-{3-[4'-bromo(1,1'-biphenyl)-4-yl]-1,2… hydroxy-2H-1-benzopyran-2-one


bromadiolone


(Boot Hill, Hawk) 3-{3-[4'-bromo(1,1'-biphenyl)-4-yl]-3-h… hydroxy-2H-1-benzopyran-2-one


chlorophacinone


(J.T. Eaton AC Formula 90) 2-{(p-chlorophenyl)phenylacetyl}-1,3-in…


difethialone


(d-CON,1 Hombre) 3-(3-(4'bromo(1,1'-biphenyl)-4-yl)-1,2,… 4-hydroxy-2H-1-benzothiopyran-2-one


diphacinone


(Ramik) 2-diphenylacetyl-1,3-indandione


warfarin


(d-CON,1 Kaput Rat %26amp; Mouse Bait) 3-(α-acetonylbenzyl)-4-hydroxycoumarin


1 Always check the label for active ingredients (a.i.). The same or similar trade names may be used for products with different a.i.





Because some anticoagulants require multiple feedings over several days before a lethal amount is ingested, fresh bait must be made available to mice continuously over a period of time. In practice, baits can be offered to mice for at least 2 weeks or as long as feeding occurs. While the newer anticoagulants (brodifacoum, bromadiolone, and difethialone) may be capable of causing death after a single feeding, the mice do not die until several days after feeding on the bait. Therefore, the method of setting the bait out is essentially the same as for the older anticoagulant products warfarin, diphacinone, and chlorophacinone.





Anticoagulants have the same effect on nearly all warm-blooded animals, but the sensitivity to these toxicants varies among species. If misused, anticoagulant poisoning can cause the death of pets, livestock, or desirable wildlife that may feed on the bait. Additionally, residues of anticoagulants that may be present in the bodies of dead or dying rodents can cause toxic effects to scavengers and predators. However, this “secondary hazard” from anticoagulants is relatively low when baits are used properly. Symptoms of anticoagulant poisoning in mammals include lethargy, loss of color in soft tissues such as the lips and gums, and bleeding from the mouth, nose, or intestinal tract. Because all rodenticides can be toxic to humans, particular care should be taken to keep rodent baits out of the reach of children. Vitamin K is the antidote for anticoagulant rodenticides, although in cases of severe poisoning, whole blood transfusion is also used.





All baits must be used according to the label directions. Use rat and mouse baits in a way that makes bait available solely to rats or mice. The newer anticoagulants (brodifacoum, bromadiolone, and difethialone) have never been approved for use in agricultural or field situations or for use against ground squirrels, meadow mice (Microtus), pocket gophers, or any other rodents except house mice, Norway rats, and roof rats. This is because these newer materials are more persistent in the body once ingested, and thus they may pose a greater hazard to nontarget wildlife, including predators and scavengers. Careful bait use will reduce the chance that rodenticide residues will occur in nontarget animals.





Bait Selection and Placement. Several formulations of anticoagulant baits are available. Grain baits or pelleted forms often are packaged in small plastic, cellophane, or paper packets or are sold in bulk. The “place packs” are designed to keep baits fresh and to make it easy to place baits into burrows, walls, or other locations. Mice will readily gnaw into place packs and feed on baits.





Anticoagulant baits formed into paraffin or wax blocks are useful in damp locations where loose grain baits spoil quickly. Unfortunately, mice may not accept these blocks as readily as they do other baits. Baits containing certain grass seeds are often particularly well accepted by mice, even in the presence of other competing food items.





Proper placement of baits is important for house mouse control. Place baits no more than 10 feet apart in areas where mouse activity is evident. If mice are living in wall spaces, place baits inside the walls.





Other Rodenticides. In addition to the anticoagulant baits, there are currently three other rodenticides available in California for use against the house mouse (Table 2). Although not anticoagulants, bromethalin and cholecalciferol are used in a manner somewhat similar to the anticoagulant products. These two materials are formulated to serve as chronic rodenticides, so that house mice will have the opportunity to feed on exposed baits one or more times over the period of one to several days. Bait acceptance is generally good when fresh, well-formulated products are used.


Table 2. Other Rodenticides for House Mouse Control Registered for Use in California 2006.How can you tell how long you have had mice, we recently found droppings in a cabinet, they much be recent.?
they may have had a nest near the pool and flooded them out. They ran for higher ground. Get some decon or glue traps before they take over. good luck
The whole pool bursting, chocolate sprinkles, mouse dripping scenario is a bit confusing. Anyway, set some glue traps in the cabinet to catch the critters.